It was finally time to start cutting wires and really dive in past the point of no return. Again, once I got to this point, I started labeling things and taking pictures meticulously.

I don't recommend following my procedures step by step because (as you will see) I really should have installed several components (such as the power tap and the LED) into the enclosure before soldering things to them. However, that was all part of the learning process on my first real project. I mostly wanted to get a working True Bypass pedal first...then worry about housing it.

I would also like to mention that it would have been much easier to change the pedal to True Bypass if I hadn't wanted to install new input and output jacks. The ones that come stock are soldered to the PCB and are made of plastic...two major drawbacks in my book. If I had used the preinstalled jacks, I could have simply followed this plan (click here).

However, I was using a mix of this parts layout from General Guitar Gadgets and this diagram (also from GGG). Between the two, they showed how I should wire the 3PDT switch and where each of the wires should go.

I started with the switch and the LED, like this:

As you can see, the board is getting in the way and making things awkward and unwieldy...So I cut the LED loose from the board:

As you can see, I have added the input and output jacks in that second picture. Tons of thanks to Keith at Big Tone Music Brewery for his in-depth directions on his Fuzz Face clone. As a newbie, I kept getting confused between ring, tip, and sleeve...to say nothing of which was supposed to be input and which was the output. So I referenced this diagram and this diagram quite a bit.

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