Once I had dissected all the internal bits from the Muff, I needed to identify what everything was in there.

As you can see, there are all kinds of wires going everywhere. I just lopped them all off, grabbed a schematic, and went to work.

Again, the most important features are:
(1) PCB signal input
(2) PCB signal output (which often goes to the volume pot)
(3) Power tap
(4) Ground

For your convenience, I have also marked where each of the potentiometer wires goes. The pots are set up like a wah pot, so lugs 1, 2, and 3 are set up as shown in the second picture here.

A handy feature on these older Sovtek/Russian Muffs is that they actually also have a pre-placed resistor for your LED. This is great because it's a pain in the ass to wire up a resistor between your LED and your switch. It also means that your LED is already connected to the power source, so you don't need to tap the DC jack with two wires (one running to the board and the other running to the LED).

WARNING -- Don't rely on these pictures if you're going to rehouse your own Blue Sovtek Muff -- unless your Muff's board looks identical to this one. As I mentioned previously, all the Muffs I've worked with have been slightly different (though they all have similarities).

One of the most common differences is switching the side that the input and output jack are on. Make sure you label yours so you know! Sometimes the input and output jacks are reversed...remember to set your rehoused Muff up so that they're on the proper sides!

I would recommend checking out a schematic to ensure that you've got everything marked properly.

Once everything is marked, reference the ever-handy General Guitar Gadgets "3PDT, Negative Ground + AC Jack" diagram for the switch and jack wiring.

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